Day of the Dead in Mexico

Hollywood is to be thanked for putting Day of the Dead in the spotlight. With movies such Disney Pixar’s Coco and and the grand opening scene of the James Bond Movie Spectre both showcasing this macabre yet colourful Meso-American tradition, the yearly celebration has drawn intrigued visitors from all over the world looking to take part in the Mexico based festivities.

Last year I finally made a trip to Mexico to coincide with the Day of the Dead celebrations and was able to experience the full vibrancy of the festivities in Mexico City, Puebla and Oaxaca. For those looking to make a similar trip in 2024 and beyond, I’ve set out a guide with some background on the tradition, where to go and what to expect to help you plan your perfect Day of the Dead trip.

What is Day of the Dead?

The Day of the Dead, or Día de los Muertos, is a Mexican tradition celebrated on November 1st and 2nd.

The origins of Day of the Dead, trace back to ancient Mesoamerican cultures, particularly the Aztecs, who viewed death as a part of life rather than an end. They believed that the souls of the deceased returned to the world of the living to be with their families. Rituals honoring ancestors included offerings of food, flowers, and other items to guide and welcome them.

With the arrival of Spanish colonizers in the 16th century, these indigenous practices blended with Catholic traditions, particularly All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day. This fusion led to the vibrant, multifaceted celebration we recognise today, combining pre-Hispanic beliefs with modern customs, emphasising remembrance, love, and continuity between life and death.

Families honor their deceased loved ones by creating altar, known as an ofrenda, adorned with photos, favourite foods of deceased loved ones, and marigolds, known locally as cempasúchil flowers. This celebration emphasizes remembrance, love, and the cycle of life and death, reflecting the belief that the spirits of the deceased return to celebrate with their families. It’s a vibrant, joyous acknowledgment of mortality and heritage.

When and where is the Day of the Dead celebrated?

Day of the Dead is primarily celebrated in Mexico on November 1st and 2nd. November 1st is dedicated to honoring deceased children (Día de los Angelitos), while November 2nd focuses on adults.

Although it originated in Mexico, the celebration has spread to various Latin American countries and communities around the world, including parts of the United States and beyond. In these places, local customs and traditions may influence how the holiday is observed, but the core themes of remembrance and honouring the deceased remain central.

What are some Day of the Dead traditions and what do they mean?

There are number of key traditions that are synonymous with Day of the Dead and which you’ll see all over Mexico if you decide to visit at this time of the year. They each hold deep cultural significance for the local people and I’ve set out some of the most common ones below:

1. Altars (Ofrendas): Ofrendas are altars created by family members during the Day of the Dead to honour and welcome the spirits of their deceased loved ones back to the land of the living and can be seen in people’s homes as well as in public spaces such as shops, restaurants and even in the streets. These altars are typically adorned with a variety of items, including:

• Photos: Images of the departed, allowing their spirits to be recognised and remembered.
• Food and Drinks: Favorite dishes and beverages of the deceased, offered to nourish their spirits during their visit.
• Marigolds: Bright orange marigold flowers guide spirits back to the altar with their vibrant colour and scent.
• Candles: Lit to represent the light of faith and to help illuminate the path for returning souls.
• Personal Items: Objects that belonged to the deceased or items that symbolise their interests and passions.

2. Marigolds (Cempasúchil): Shops, business, restaurants and and homes are adorned with vibrant orange cempasúchil flowers which can be seen everywhere in abundance during this holiday as they are believed to attract spirits with their bright colour and alluring scent, and help guide them back to the ofrendas lovingly curated by their family members.

3. Pan de Muerto: Pan de muerto, or “bread of the dead,” is a traditional sweet bread prepared and enjoyed during the Day of the Dead. This bread is often shaped like a round loaf with decorative bone-like pieces on top, symbolising the cycle of life and death. The bread is typically flavoured with orange blossom, cinnamon and sugar, giving it a distinct and fragrant taste and is commonly placed on ofrendas as an offering to deceased loved ones. The bread’s design and preparation embody the themes of celebration, memory and the joy of life, making it a central part of the Day of the Dead traditions.

4. Sugar Skulls (Calaveras): Calaveras are decorative skulls made from sugar, often adorned with colourful icing and other embellishments. These skulls are typically inscribed with the names of deceased loved ones, serving as a playful reminder of mortality and the cycle of life. The vibrant colours and artistic designs reflect joy and celebration rather than fear, embodying the belief that death is a natural part of life. Calaveras can be found on ofrendas, where they honor the deceased, and are also enjoyed as treats during the festivities. Their presence emphasises the celebration of life and the enduring connection between the living and the dead.

5. Cemetery Visits: Families visit cemeteries during the Day of the Dead to honour and celebrate their deceased loved ones. This practice is rooted in the belief that the spirits of the departed return to the world of the living during this time. Some reasons for these visits include:

• Remembrance: Visiting graves allows families to remember and reflect on the lives of their loved ones, sharing stories and memories.
• Connection: It reinforces the bond between the living and the dead, maintaining a sense of continuity and presence.
• Decoration and Care: Families clean and decorate gravesites with flowers, particularly marigolds, candles, and personal items, creating a welcoming space for the spirits.
• Celebration: The atmosphere is often festive, with music, food, and gatherings, turning the visit into a joyful celebration of life rather than a somber occasion.

6. La Catrina: When you think of Day of the Dead, the first thought that comes to most people’s minds are the colourful and slightly spooky skeletal face paintings associated with this celebration. This tradition comes from a well-known Mexican cultural figure, La Catrina. Originally created by illustrator José Guadalupe Posada in the early 20th century, La Catrina was intended as a satirical representation of the wealthy and their indifference to death. The iconic skeletal figure, represents the inevitability of death, reminding people that it affects everyone, regardless of social status or wealth. Often depicted in elegant attire, La Catrina symbolises the idea that death is a part of life, encouraging people to embrace it with humour and grace. She serves as a bridge between the living and the dead, reinforcing the idea that death is a part of life to be honored and celebrated.

These traditions collectively emphasise remembrance, love, and the ongoing bond between the living and the deceased, making Día de los Muertos a deeply meaningful celebration.

Where is the best place to experience the Day of the Dead celebrations?

Although Day of the Dead is celebrated across various Latin American cultures, some of the best celebrations can be experienced in Mexico, particularly in the south and central regions where the tradition is most vibrant and deeply rooted. Some of the more authentic locations include:

1. Oaxaca (and Puebla): This is where I personally celebrated Day of the Dead and is deemed to be one of the best places to experience the festivities. This region offers a rich cultural tapestry, with community altars, parades, and local traditions. The surrounding villages, such as Teotitlán del Valle, also celebrate with unique customs.
2. Michoacán: Particularly the towns of Pátzcuaro and Janitzio. These areas are known for their beautiful candlelit cemeteries and vibrant celebrations that include processions and traditional music.
3. San Miguel de Allende: This colonial town features traditional altars, festivals, and community events, offering a charming atmosphere for experiencing Día de los Muertos.
4. Mexico City: Although I didn’t spend the actual Day of the Dead in Mexico City, I spent some time there in late October and Day of the Dead decorations and preparations were already in full swing. Although the regions listed above offer more traditional Day of the Dead experiences, Mexico City is a bustling metropolis and has neighbourhoods like Coyoacán that host authentic celebrations, including street markets, altars, and lively gatherings at cemeteries. The city also hosts a huge Day of the Dead Parade just before the 1st & 2nd November.

I arrived in Mexico the week preceding the Day of the Dead with the intention of celebrating the actual Day of the Dead in Oaxaca before continuing my travels around Mexico. Mexico City is definitely a great place to spend the few days before Day of the Dead as they begin preparations and decorations in advance, so if you plan it well, you can catch the big street parade if you’re there on the right weekend.

Interestingly, I learned that Day of the Dead isn’t as fervently celebrated in the southern regions of Chiapas and Yucatan which is where the tourist spots of Cancun and Playa del Carmen are located. You’ll definitely see decorations and the like, but my understanding from speaking with my local guide was that the regions listed above are your best bet if you want a more authentic and traditional experience. So that is something to keep in mind if the main purpose of your Mexico trip is to experience the Day of the Dad festivities.

My tips for planning your perfect Day of the Dead trip

1. Book as far in advance as possible: Movies and social media have made Day of the Dead an extremely popular travel experience resulting in more tourists looking to make the trip. As it’s one of the biggest holidays in Mexico, hotels, flights and buses books up really fast and so I advise booking your travel arrangements in advance. I booked quite late which meant that the affordable rooms were booked up and the rest were really expensive.
2. Research parade timings in advance of your trip: The Day of the Dead parades are really popular and locals begin queuing several hours before the start time to secure the best viewing spots. If you want a chance of being able to see anything, make sure you know the dates and start times of any events and parades you want to visit and get there early.
3. Be respectful: I can’t emphasise this enough. Day of the Dead is a traditional holiday with deep cultural significance. Although it is a celebration of life, it’s not spring break and so should not be treated as an excuse to behave like a nuisance. If you decide to go, be mindful of the significance it has to the local people. I was told by my guide that there has been a recent influx of western tourists who treat it like carneval and act drunk and sloppy. Don’t do that.
4. Ask before taking photographs: Tourists are (for now) welcome to attend cemeteries to observe the traditions and this is a really interesting thing to experience but it’s important to be mindful of people who are there to pay their respects, not be intrusive and to ask before taking photos. Most people are happy to have you there and to answer questions so long as you are respectful.
5. Get into the spirit!: Ultimately Day of the Dead is a time to remember the loved ones people have lost but overall it is treated as a celebration of life. There are parades, music, dancing, food, dressing up and face painting so you should certainly get involved. I loved getting my face painted as La Catrina and the overall vibe on the day was just magical.

So if you’re planning your 2024 Day of the Dead trip, I hope this blog helps you to make it a reality! For more info on Day of the dead and travelling through Mexico generally, check out my Vlog on YouTube: https://youtu.be/xjs4dKlwiaU

Useful links:

https://www.wanderlustmagazine.com/inspiration/best-places-day-of-the-dead

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/11-best-hotels-for-day-of-the-dead

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/articles/dia-de-los-muertos-what-to-know